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Performance And Racing FAQ's |
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Topic QuickLinks
I
lost the instructions that came with my clutch.
Complete
instructions for all ram products are listed on the technical page of
this website.
APPLICATION
AND PRODUCT VERIFICATION
What is the best product choice for my car/truck ?
Review the clutch set listings on this website to find the
product that matches your horsepower level. If you intend to race the car,
select one level higher. If this is an engine, transmission swap you will need
to select from our component listings.
Your distributor sold me a 98xxx . Do I have the right
clutch ?
Review the clutch set listings on this website to find the
product that matches your horsepower level. If you intend to race the car select
one level higher.
Does
running slicks effect which clutch I should use?
Yes!
Different clutch combinations offer varying amounts of holding power.
Clutch combinations are engineered to provide optimum holding power and
driveability for a given application. A sticky tire will put more load on
the drive line.
CLUTCH
OPERATION
My
new clutch won’t release, transmission grinds going into reverse, or shifts
hard.
The first issue is determining if the
clutch will release properly. With the clutch and flywheel out of the vehicle:
bolt the clutch assembly
( including the disc ) to the flywheel. Using an arbor
press, hydraulic press, or other suitable means, depress the release levers or
fingers and check that the disc releases cleanly and will move about between the
flywheel and pressure ring. Note the amount of travel required to release the
disc.
If the clutch releases properly,
the problem lies in the mechanical or hydraulic release system. Refer to the
vehicle maintenance manual for proper inspection and maintenance of the release system, or
on older vehicles or racecars, disconnect the cable or linkage from the fork,
then check that the pivot ball is
positioned so that the fork is
positioned perpendicular to the
centerline of the driveline when
the release bearing is resting on the release fingers. If necessary adjust
the position of the pivot ball to get the fork into the optimum position.
This positioning is critical for
proper release action.
If you are doing an engine, clutch & flywheel, and/or
transmission/ bellhousing swap make sure the pivot and fork position or
hydraulic slave travel is correct , and there is adequate additional
clearance to keep the bearing off the clutch fingers in the released position.
If you are doing an engine, clutch & flywheel, and/or
transmission/ bellhousing swap we are unable to assist you with information
concerning the engine, transmission, bellhousing, or aftermarket release system
you may have, and may not be able to supply dimensions or technical data.
My clutch chatters when i engage the clutch in 1st or reverse gear..
All high
performance clutch discs have friction material with a high coefficient of
friction. They are more aggressive on engagement and can cause chatter. Chatter
is aggravated by gearing and tire size. For example,
a car with a 3.08 to 1 rear gear will have chatter. This car is
essentially in second gear when pulling
off and it will chatter with any clutch. Many factory performance cars
have high gearing to meet emissions and gas mileage requirements that
will tend to cause chatter. If you install a performance clutch in a car with
less than 3.78 to 1 rear and 2.60 to 1 first gear ratios you probably will
experience some clutch chatter . If
you have this problem you may have to change your driving technique to minimize the
chatter. Or better, change the rear gear.
I
can’t shift the transmission at high rpm.
The
clutch itself will not cause a shifting problem. Improper release adjustment,
faulty operation , or a transmission problem are probable causes. To test the
clutch system, put the car in first gear with the clutch disengaged and bring
the engine up to the rpm where the problem occurs.
If the clutch wants to pull or move the car, more release travel is
required for the fork or slave cylinder. If there is no tendency to move the
car, the problem is in the transmission.
My
clutch slips in 3rd and
4th on the gear change.
Check
that the linkage is properly setup
and adjusted and that the release bearing is not riding on the release levers.
If the bearing is adjusted to touch the levers it will unload the clutch
and cause it to slip. If the
adjustment is correct, the clutch setup is incorrect and you will need “more
clutch” to correct the problem.
I
have a late model Mustang with the cable linkage, and the pedal is extremely
stiff, or I have a problem breaking the outer casings of the cable.
These
problems can occur when the clutch quadrant is not positioned properly on the
shaft under the dash. There are no 'stops' on this shaft, and if the
quadrant does not line up with the cable routing hole in the firewall, the cable
pulls at an angle and can cause heavy pedal effort or in extreme cases, breakage
of the cable and/or cable housing. Be sure to sight the position of the
quadrant when installing so it lines up with the cable routing hole.
WARRANTY
I
only have 700 miles on my replacement set and the release bearing makes noise
all the time. My installer wants me to pay him
again to take it out to examine it. Can you help me ?
Go to: warranty
information/ determination on the technical page
for complete information on evaluating warranties and warranty handling
procedures.
RACE
CLUTCHES
I
don’t have the instructions for my race clutch.
Go to
technical on this website to find installation and setup instructions on all ram
products.
I bought a race car with a ram adjustable clutch in it and i want to put it in
another car. Can you give me the starting setup ?
Go to
technical on this website to find installation and setup instructions on all ram
products.
If
you need further advice or information :
We need
to know: spring color, ring height measurement, counterweight lever or not, disc
friction material compound, last SFI date, and general condition. Enter this
information in the information box
and completely fill out the e-tech page
found under technical on
this website. Submit the page and we will help you as best we can via e-mail.
CUSTOM
CLUTCHES
Can
you make a special flywheel, pressure plate, or disc ?
One off
products will require an estimate
from engineering. Typically we need to make drawings, write two cnc programs,
make tooling, and make two machine setups . This can be an expensive process .
PRESSURE
PLATES
What is the difference between RAM and Centerforce?
Centerforce clutches rely on centrifugal assist, or additional plate loading as
the engine RPM increases, to add holding power to the clutch.
RAM clutches in most cases use either higher static plate loads or more
aggressive friction materials to increase the hold.
This is critical because the bulk of a street engine’s torque load in
generated at RPMs under 5000; centrifugal assist does not even begin to be a
factor until about 6000 RPM…
What do I torque the pressure plate bolts to ?
5/16” cap screws torque to 26 ft# in steel or
22 ft# in aluminum. Red locktite recommended in both materials.
3/8”” cap screws torque to 45 ft# in steel or
33 ft# in aluminum. Red locktite recommended in both materials.
What is the break in procedure for my clutch ?
There is no break in required.
How do I adjust the
pressure in my adjustable pressure plate?
If your clutch is new, it is already set on the low side
pressure. The adjusters turn counterclockwise, one turn on one spring = 20 lbs,
so if you turn out all six one turn you add 120 lbs to the low side base. Max
turns is 6. When starting, turn the screw until you feel some resistance and
begin your count from there.
If the clutch already has been adjusted, you need to
return the adjusters (clockwise) to the base. Turn them in slowly until you feel
the pressure relieved from the screw. Don't go past this point or you may lock
the screw in the adjuster and it will not come back out without disassembling
the plate.
Some specialty units may have a different pressure form
one turn (ie one turn may equal 15 or 10 lbs), be sure to check the instruction
sheet that came with your clutch for this number.
DISCS
I have a RAM 6000 series disc and it’s supposed to be 11 inch but measures
10.5. Why?
All 6000 series discs measure undersize. 11
inch discs are 10 5/8 inch, 10.5 inch are 10 ¼ inch.
The reasoning here is that if you were ever to loose a front transmission
bearing or a pilot bushing, the disc could run out and catch on the pressure
plate, causing catastrophic damage.
But the pads hang off the inside of the pressure plate.
Is this a problem?
No, the pad will hang off due to the fact it is a stock production pad.
Wear on this type of disc is so negligible that it will never be a
factor. No loss of holding power
will result.
Which side of the disc faces to the flywheel when I install?
In 99% of the cases, the disc mounts with the sprung side (the side the hub and
retainer are assembled to) facing the transmission.
The flatter side of the disc faces down to the flywheel.
There are a few cases, such as 93-97 Camaro/Firebird where the sprung
side of the disc faces the flywheel. This
will usually be apparent due to a deeper recess in the flywheel flange area of
the flywheel, or markings on the disc indicating mounting direction.
Which disc materials are more aggressive for street driving?
Discs using metallic facings are usually more aggressive on engagement than
organic or composites. Check the
clutch disc ‘barometer’ in the RAM catalog for descriptions on each friction
material.
I have a RAM 900 series disc and it is completely worn out on the flywheel side
in only a few hundred miles. What
gives?
RAM 900 series discs were developed and tested using RAM flywheels.
Since introduction of this disc we have discovered material differences
in both factory and other manufacturers flywheels that make them incompatible
with the 900 series material. We
recommend using 900 series ONLY with a RAM flywheel.
RELEASE
BEARINGS
My release bearing looks to be off center when viewed from the face.
Why?
The bearing
you describe is a self aligning release bearing.
The bearing is designed to move about on the collar and find its own
center on the pressure plate fingers the first time the clutch is disengaged.
Most late model applications use this style of bearing.
FLYWHEELS
Should
I use a steel or lightweight aluminum flywheel?
Go to clutch
university…. Flywheels
on this website to determine what you should use.
How
much horsepower will I gain by using a light flywheel?
There is
no horsepower in a light flywheel,
all of the horsepower is in the
engine. The advantage of a lighter flywheel is that it takes less horsepower to
accelerate a lighter flywheel so more engine power is available at the drive
wheels. Also see: clutch university…. Flywheels.
Why
is a RAM flywheel my best choice ?
Every ram
flywheel is: 1. Precision machined in house on the finest CNC
equipment, 2. The friction surface is accurately ground to the ideal rms
finish for optimum performance with the clutch disc friction material, 3. Each
flywheel is precision balanced to better than factory tolerances , and 4. every
flywheel is SFI certified for competition use.
Is my RAM flywheel balanced from the factory?
All RAM flywheels are factory balanced to zero or the proper imbalance for the
engine from the factory. If your
engine was balanced by adding or taking weight from the flywheel, you will need
to have the RAM flywheel match balanced to your old one.
Otherwise they are ready to install out of the box.
BE CAREFUL to select the proper flywheel or engine-destroying vibrations
could occur!
Do I have to resurface my flywheel before installing a new clutch?
YES! In order for the new clutch
disc to properly seat to the flywheel, it should be resurfaced using a flywheel
grinding machine. Do not lathe turn
flywheels! This can cause a taper
in the face that will not allow the disc to seat properly.
FAILURE TO SURFACE THE FLYWHEEL CAN NOT ONLY CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE, IT
WILL VOID ANY WARRANTY.
What is blanchard grinding?
Blanchard grinding is simply resurfacing the flywheel with a stone cutter that
spins opposite the flywheel and leaves a ‘cross hatch’ type pattern on the
surface.
Can I use star washers to install my flywheel?
RAM recommends using red loctite or similar compounds to lock the flywheel bolts
into the crank. Star washers will
tend to eat up the flywheel around the bolt holes and eventually make it
difficult to get the bolts in or out of the flywheel.
This is especially true with aluminum flywheels.
ASSAULT WEAPON
How do I check my 2 or 3 disc clutch for wear?
The determining factor is the overall ‘stack height’ of the clutch.
To check this, install all of the parts into the clutch housing and set
the cover on but DO NOT BOLT DOWN. At
this point the cover should be sitting up off the shoulder of the mounting
studs. The distance between the top
of the mounting stud and the bottom edge of the cover is the stack height.
New clutches ship with a stack height around .110 inch.
The clutch could slip once this gap reduces to around .050 inch.
If you have shim washers in your clutch on the studs, measure the gap
with them in place first. If the
stack is at or below .050 inch, you can remove the shims which will restore the
stack back to about .110 inch. Once
it wears the next time, it is time for a rebuild.
My clutch is slipping. Can I just
put a disc pack in and go again?
You COULD, but this might not address the problem.
The steel plates should all be checked for flatness.
Warped or hot spotted plates will not allow a new disc pack to seat
properly. Check the cover plate to
make sure the diaphragm spring (fingers) is tight on the rivets.
Loose springs will cause the clutch to release erratically.
WHEN THE CLUTCH HAS WORN TO THE POINT THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SHIMS,
CONSIDER SENDING THE CLUTCH FOR REBUILD.
What do I use for a flywheel on RAM button style clutches?
Use an automatic transmission flexplate that matches your tooth count for
starter engagement and matches the balance of your engine.
A stock flexplate is acceptable as it is only used to start the engine.
I have a new Assault clutch and it won’t release.
What could be the problem?
There are several possibilities:
- Make
sure you are using a rounded or angular face throwout bearing.
Flat face stock bearings do not push on the finger tips of the clutch
and will often cause non release and extremely stiff pedal effort.
- Check
the fork angle in relation to the engine.
Ideally, the fork should be angled to the front of the car when the
bearing is just touching the clutch fingers (drivers side pivots only, this
is opposite if the fork pivots on the passenger side).
This angle can be adjusted using different length pivot balls, or by
making a spacer for the fork bracket.
- Is
the bellhousing properly aligned? Most
aftermarket bellhousings are ‘less than perfect’ when it comes to
alignment. Follow the
bellhousing manufacturers instructions to align it to the engine.
IN ADDITION, just because a bellhousing is aligned to the current
motor, don’t assume it is correct for any engine.
This varies from motor to motor…
- Make
sure the shim washers are placed on the stands BEFORE the cover is bolted
down.
RAM COUPLER
What is the maximum car weight for use with a RAM Coupler?
RAM recommends using the coupler in vehicles under 2600 pounds.
Using the Coupler in heavier cars will result in accelerated wear to the
friction lining of the unit.
What bearing do I use with the Coupler and how much bearing travel is required
to use it?
Any standard or hydraulic release mechanism may be used provided it has at least
½ inch travel AT THE BEARING, not at the fork.
For internal hydraulic release bearings, look for .700 inch travel.
My car fits the RAM specifications for the Coupler, but I have problems pulling
off with the cone clutch. What can
cause this?
Several
possibilities:
- If
you are using a transmission with some of the gears removed and starting in
3rd or 4th gear, it will be much more difficult to get
the car moving than if you have a low gear in the trans.
This is especially critical when you are learning to use the Coupler
initially.
- The
Coupler cannot be ‘slipped’ like a regular clutch to get moving.
The pedal should be bumped in and out AT LOW RPM until the car is
moving. If you try and drive it
like a regular clutch, the friction cone will wear very quickly.
- Inadequate
travel at the release bearing will not allow for the full range of movement
between the clutch portion of the unit and the direct drive.
I can get the Coupler to pull off, but it just grinds when I try to engage the
direct drive. Why?
Because the Coupler gears are not synchronized like a transmission, the
engine and input speeds must be ‘matched’ in order for the direct drive to
engage. In other words, the engine
RPM will need to be falling to match the output speed – once the gear engages
jump back on the throttle and go!
SINGLE IRON
How do I know when its time to look at a sintered iron clutch versus other RAM
products?
The factors that determine this answer are:
- Is
your current clutch combination too aggressive?
In other words, do the tires spin excessively off the line or on the
gear change?
- Is
the vehicle over 750 horsepower?
- Is
there a need to ‘slip’ the clutch off the line in order for the vehicle
to launch cleanly?
- Are
you in a class that greatly limits chassis modifications?
These are the most important factors to consider.
Sintered clutches tend to be less aggressive on engagement and gear
changes, allowing the clutch to slip some rather than spin or shake the tires.
Why do sintered iron clutches use such a low static pressure?
The nature of the sintered material is a very high coefficient of friction, or
ability to hold and withstand heat. They
simply do not require the higher pressures and are able to tolerate slippage
where other friction materials fail.
When do I use a counterweighted lever versus a standard lever?
All Long Style clutches inherently apply additional clamp loading as engine RPM
increases, whether they are true ‘counterweighted’ clutches or not.
Counterweighted levers allow you to use less static pressure to leave the
line, and have more pressure apply as the engine accelerates in RPM.
True counterweighted levers (drilled with a hole to add weight) are used
in ‘non-shifting’ applications such as clutchless transmissions, or when the
engine RPM will not exceed 6500.
I have a counterweighted single iron clutch and when I bring the RPM up on the
starting line, the pedal is pushing back and trying to pull the car through the
lights at the starting line. Why?
Your launch
RPM is too high. Because
centrifugal is not a linear function, the higher the launch RPM, the centrifugal
loading is compounded. The weights
are trying to push back and engage the clutch centrifugally.
This will become evident usually above 7000 RPM.
In order for the sintered iron clutch to ‘slip’ off the line, you
must launch at a lower RPM than you are probably used to.
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