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I
lost the instructions that came with my clutch.
Complete instructions for all ram products are listed on the instructions
page of this website.
APPLICATION
AND PRODUCT VERIFICATION
What
is the best product choice for my car/truck ?
Review
the clutch set listings on this website to find the product that matches
your horsepower level. If you intend to race the car, select one level
higher. If this is an engine, transmission swap you will need to select
from our component listings.
Your
distributor sold me a 98xxx . Do I have the right clutch ?
Review
the clutch set listings on this website to find the product that matches
your horsepower level. If you intend to race the car select one level
higher.
Does
running slicks effect which clutch I should use?
Yes!
Different clutch combinations offer varying amounts of holding power.
Clutch combinations are engineered to provide optimum holding power and
driveability for a given application. A sticky tire will put more
load on the drive line.
CLUTCH
OPERATION
My
new clutch won’t release, transmission grinds going into reverse, or
shifts hard.
The
first issue is determining if the clutch will release properly. With the
clutch and flywheel out of the vehicle: bolt the clutch assembly (
including the disc ) to the flywheel. Using an arbor press, hydraulic
press, or other suitable means, depress the release levers or fingers and
check that the disc releases cleanly and will move about between the
flywheel and pressure ring. Note the amount of travel required to release
the disc.
If
the clutch releases properly, the problem lies in the mechanical or
hydraulic release system. Refer to the vehicle maintenance manual for
proper inspection and maintenance of the release system, or on
older vehicles or racecars, disconnect the cable or linkage from the fork,
then check that the pivot ball
is positioned so that the fork is
positioned perpendicular to
the centerline of the
driveline when the release bearing is resting on the release fingers. If
necessary adjust the position of the pivot ball to get the fork into the
optimum position. This
positioning is critical for
proper release action.
If
you are doing an engine, clutch & flywheel, and/or transmission/
bellhousing swap make sure the pivot and fork position or
hydraulic slave travel is correct , and there is adequate
additional clearance to keep the bearing off the clutch fingers in the
released position.
In
some Mustang cable operated systems, it may be necessary to adjust the
pivot ball height in order to correct release issues or a situation where
the pedal is ‘too low’.
If
you are doing an engine, clutch & flywheel, and/or transmission/
bellhousing swap we are unable to assist you with information
concerning the engine, transmission, bellhousing, or aftermarket release
system you may have, and may
not be able to supply dimensions or technical data.
I
use a hydraulic bearing with my RAM clutch and it shifts fine when cold,
but does not when the car warms up. Why?
Check
your setup dimensions for the bearing to make sure you have set the
clearance properly. Also
verify that you are getting adequate travel from the bearing by testing
the system with the bearing hanging under the car.
My
clutch chatters when I engage the clutch in 1st
or reverse gear..
All
high performance clutch discs have friction material with a high
coefficient of friction. They are more aggressive on engagement and can
cause chatter. Chatter is aggravated by gearing and tire size. For
example, a car with a 3.08 to
1 rear gear will have chatter. This car is essentially in second
gear when pulling off and it
will chatter with any clutch. Many factory performance cars
have high gearing to meet emissions and gas mileage requirements
that will tend to cause chatter. If you install a performance clutch in a
car with less than 3.78 to 1 rear and 2.60 to 1 first gear ratios you
probably will experience some clutch chatter .
If you have this problem you may have to change your driving
technique to minimize the chatter. Or better, change the rear gear.
I
can’t shift the transmission at high rpm.
The
clutch itself will not cause a shifting problem. Improper release
adjustment, faulty operation , or a transmission problem are probable
causes. To test the clutch system, put the car in first gear with the
clutch disengaged and bring the engine up to the rpm where the problem
occurs. If the clutch wants to
pull or move the car, more release travel is required for the fork
or slave cylinder. If there is no tendency to move the car, the problem is
in the transmission.
My
clutch slips in 3rd and
4th on the gear
change.
Check
that the linkage is properly
setup and adjusted and that the release bearing is not riding on the
release levers. If the bearing
is adjusted to touch the levers it will unload the clutch and cause it to
slip. If the adjustment is
correct, the clutch setup is incorrect and you will need “more clutch”
to correct the problem.
My
clutch is slipping and it is rated for 650 horsepower, but I only have
500?
Horsepower
ratings are intended only as a guide to clutch selection, and to be able
to compare RAM units to other brands when making your clutch choice.
They are not going to be exactly perfect for every application.
Other factors affect the holding power of the clutch including
using a sticky tire or slick, high rear gearing, excessive slippage on
takeoff, power adders, usage at the track, and excessive use on a chassis
dyno.
I
have a late model Mustang with the cable linkage, and the pedal is
extremely stiff, or I have a problem breaking the outer casings of the
cable.
These
problems can occur when the clutch quadrant is not positioned properly on
the shaft under the dash. There are no 'stops' on this shaft, and if
the quadrant does not line up with the cable routing hole in the firewall,
the cable pulls at an angle and can cause heavy pedal effort or in extreme
cases, breakage of the cable and/or cable housing. Be sure to sight
the position of the quadrant when installing so it lines up with the cable
routing hole.
I
have an LT1 clutch set and it will not release.
What can I check?
LT1
applications are notorious for wear on the pivot tee/fork assembly that
will affect release. Replace
these components if the clutch is not operating properly.
WARRANTY
I
only have 700 miles on my replacement set and the release bearing makes
noise all the time. My installer wants me to pay him again to take it out
to examine it. Can you help me ?
Go
to: warranty
information/ determination on the technical page
for complete information on evaluating warranties and warranty
handling procedures.
HYDRAULIC
RELEASE BEARINGS
My
RAM hydraulic bearing is leaking. What
do I do?
If
your hydraulic bearing is leaking, the first thing you must do is determine
the cause of the leak. Is the
fluid leaking from the fittings or lines?
Is it leaking from the seals/o-rings?
If
the fittings are leaking, make sure you have used Teflon tape to seal the
fittings in the bearing. Liquid
and Teflon tube sealants WILL NOT hold the pressures this bearing sees and
will ultimately leak. Re-check
the tightness of the fittings and the hoses.
If
the seals/o-rings are leaking, why? Double
check your setup heights on the bearing to make sure the bearing is not
traveling to the snap ring and overpressurizing the system.
Other possibilities include:
Re-read
the instructions located here
to review other possibilities for the leakage.
I
have done all the installation measurements and with no shims my RAM
hydraulic bearing will not fit. What
can I do?
Some
specialized applications are simply not going to provide enough room for
the RAM hydraulic bearing. If
you must use this product, you will need to reduce the overall setup
height of your clutch assembly, possibly with a thinner flywheel or
shorter clutch cover, or the transmission will need to be spaced back from
the bellhousing to increase bearing clearance.
BILLET
RACE CLUTCHES
How
deep of bellhousing is required for a RAM 2 or 3 disc clutch?
A
minimum of 7 1/2 inch bellhousing is required for a dual disc, 8 1/8 inch
for a triple disc clutch. RAM
recommends an 8 5/8” depth for all applications as you will have two
adjustment windows to work on the clutch between runs.
How
much bearing clearance is required for a RAM billet clutch?
A
minimum of ¼ inch is required.
I
don’t have the instructions for my race clutch.
Go
to technical on this website to find installation and setup instructions
on all ram products.
I
bought a RAM billet clutch and I want to put it in another car. Can you
give me the starting setup?
Go
to technical on this website to find installation and setup instructions
on all ram products.
If
you need further advice or information:
We
need to know: spring color, ring height measurement, lever weight, disc
friction material compound, last SFI date, and general condition. Enter
this information in the information box and completely fill out the e-tech
page found under
technical on this website. Submit the page and we will help you as best we
can via e-mail.
I
have an older RAM 3 lever dual disc. Can
you help me with setup information on this clutch?
The
drag racing 3 lever dual disc has been out of production for over 15 years
and we cannot provide technical assistance for these units.
CUSTOM
CLUTCHES
Can
you make a special flywheel, pressure plate, or disc ?
One
off products will require an estimate from engineering. Typically we need
to make drawings, write two cnc programs, make tooling, and make two
machine setups. This can be an expensive process.
FORCE
9.5, FORCE 10.5, RTRACE STREET DUAL DISC CLUTCHES
My
RTrack dual disc makes noise when I push in the pedal at idle.
Because
the RTrack drives the floater plate off the steel stands, it does tend to
have a rattle at idle particularly when the steel stands are used.
By switching out 3 of the stands to the included composite stands,
this noise can be greatly reduced.
How
much bearing travel is required with a RAM dual disc street clutch?
Dual
disc clutches require slightly more travel than single disc clutches.
The maximum that should be required for any application is .425”.
Can
I use my factory internal slave/bearing with a RAM dual disc clutch?
Yes,
provided the proper fit can be attained.
Review the information on factory
hydraulics in the instruction section for information on measuring
for fit and proper installation. In
cases where the factory bearing will not fit, a RAM hydraulic bearing may
be available that will facilitate the installation.
My
RTrack dual disc clutch will not release.
If
you used the composite stands, the torque on the nuts is critical.
Exceeding the torque specification can cause the stands to expand
and grab the floater plate, which will keep the clutch from properly
releasing.
Verify
that you have proper
preload on the factory slave/bearing in hydraulic applications.
On
fork applications, make sure you have proper release fork angle and
adequate travel for disengagement.
If
all of these checks are performed and the clutch still will not release,
remove the unit, bolt it together, and test release in a press.
With .400” travel at the fingers you should be able to move the
discs freely in the clutch. If
it releases with this test, there is a problem with the release mechanism
in the vehicle. If it will not
release, contact the factory via the e-tech
form.
My
Force 9.5 or Force 10.5 clutch will not release.
Verify
that you have proper
preload on the factory slave/bearing in hydraulic applications.
On
fork applications, make sure you have proper release fork angle and
adequate travel for disengagement.
If
all of these checks are performed and the clutch still will not release,
remove the unit, bolt it together, and test release in a press.
With .400” travel at the fingers you should be able to move the
discs freely in the clutch. If
it releases with this test, there is a problem with the release mechanism
in the vehicle. If it will not
release, contact the factory via the e-tech
form.
PRESSURE
PLATES
What
is the difference between RAM and Centerforce?
Centerforce
clutches rely on centrifugal assist, or additional plate loading as the
engine RPM increases, to add holding power to the clutch.
RAM clutches in most cases use either higher static plate loads or
more aggressive friction materials to increase the hold.
This is critical because the bulk of a street engine’s torque
load in generated at RPMs under 5000; centrifugal assist does not even
begin to be a factor until about 6000 RPM…
What
do I torque the pressure plate bolts to ?
5/16”
cap screws torque to 26 ft# in steel or
22 ft# in aluminum. Red locktite recommended in both materials.
3/8””
cap screws torque to 45 ft# in steel or
33 ft# in aluminum. Red locktite recommended in both materials.
I
have a Chrysler application and the pressure plate sizings are confusing.
How do I know if I have a 10.5, 10.95, or 11 inch clutch?
Chrysler
used several clutch configurations in early model cars, including a
special 10.95 clutch which is essentially an 11 inch pressure plate in a
10.5 inch cover. The best way
to tell is to fist measure across the bolt circle of the flywheel.
The 10.5 and 10.95 inch patterns measure 11.375” center to center
across the bolt circle. True
11 inch patterns measure 12.375”. If
your bolt circle is 11.375 and the pressure ring measures just under 11
inches across, you have a 10.95 pressure plate.
Also note that 10.95 clutch sets utilize a 10.5 inch clutch disc.
Finally, if you application uses a 130 tooth flywheel, you must
choose between the 10.5 or 10.95 clutches as an 11 inch will not fit the
flywheel.
I
want to use a diaphragm pressure plate instead of a lever style.
What pressure plates share common bolt patterns?
For
GM or Chrysler applications, Borg and Beck lever style and diaphragm
pressure plates will interchange. So
if you have a 10.5 or 11 inch Borg & Beck, you can use a 10.5 or 11
inch GM diaphragm pressure plate. In
early Ford applications, the 10 and 10.5 inch long style covers have a
diaphragm substitute in 10 inch that may be used, although holding power
will suffer by making this move. 11.5/12”
Ford lever style clutches have a diaphragm substitute available.
Please see the RAM applications for further information.
How
much travel is required at the clutch fingers to disengage my clutch?
Most
single disc clutches require between .300” and .400” travel AT THE
FINGERS for full disengagement. Remember
fork travel is not the same as travel at the fingers as the ratio of the
fork and pivot also come into play. Multi-disc
clutch like the street dual disc units require .350” to .450” travel.
When
setting freeplay or bearing clearance, how much room do I need to leave
for clutch wear?
As
a general rule, .010” of disc wear will move the clutch fingers
.040-.050” closer to the release bearing.
Taking into account that most clutch discs wear a total of
.030-.040” over the life of the clutch, the minimum clearance you should
run is .150 - .200”. If you
have an externally adjustable release mechanism, you can run a little
tighter bearing gap but readjustment will be necessary over the life of
the clutch.
When
my pressure plate is bolted down, the clutch fingers are not even.
Why?
Typically
the clutch fingers will vary slightly, so small differences are not a big
deal. If you have more than
about .030” variance, you could experience uneven release or chatter on
takeoff. If the levers are
uneven, make sure:
1.
The
pressure plate mounting flange is not bent.
A bent flange will cause the pressure plate to bolt down unevenly.
2.
If
the clutch disc is new, it may have small variances until it is seated, so
a minor difference may be noticed.
3.
Unbolt
the pressure plate and move it one position and re-install.
If the lever difference moves with the turn, the problem may be in
the pressure plate.
What
is the break in procedure for my clutch ?
There
is no break in required. That said, just as in a brake system, it does not
hurt to put the clutch though several heat cycles of usage before
subjecting the clutch to severe use such as chassis dyno tuning.
How
do I adjust the pressure in my adjustable pressure plate?
If
your clutch is new, it is already set on the low side pressure. The
adjusters turn counterclockwise, one turn on one spring = 20 lbs, so if
you turn out all six one turn you add 120 lbs. to the low side base. Max
turns is 6. When starting, turn the screw until you feel some resistance
and begin your count from there.
If
the clutch already has been adjusted, you need to return the adjusters
(clockwise) to the base. Turn them in slowly until you feel the pressure
relieved from the screw. Don't go past this point or you may lock the
screw in the adjuster and it will not come back out without disassembling
the plate.
Some
specialty units may have a different pressure form one turn (ie one turn
may equal 15 or 10 lbs), be sure to check the instruction sheet that came
with your clutch for this number.
DISCS
I
have a RAM 6000 series disc and it’s supposed to be 11 inch but measures
10.5. Why?
All
6000 series discs measure undersize. 11
inch discs are 10 5/8 inch, 10.5 inch are 10 ¼ inch.
The reasoning here is that if you were ever to loose a front
transmission bearing or a pilot bushing, the disc could run out and catch
on the pressure plate, causing catastrophic damage.
But
the pads hang off the inside of the pressure plate.
Is this a problem?
No,
the pad will hang off due to the fact it is a stock production pad.
Wear on this type of disc is so negligible that it will never be a
factor. No loss of holding
power will result.
What
type of lube should I use on my clutch disc splines?
RAM
does not recommend lubricating the clutch disc splines as excessive grease
can be slung off the input, contaminating the friction material and
possibly causing slippage.
Which
side of the disc faces to the flywheel when I install?
In
99% of the cases, the disc mounts with the sprung side (the side the hub
and retainer are assembled to) facing the transmission.
The flatter side of the disc faces down to the flywheel.
There are a few cases, such as 93-97 Camaro/Firebird where the
sprung side of the disc faces the flywheel.
This will usually be apparent due to a deeper recess in the
flywheel flange area of the flywheel, or markings on the disc indicating
mounting direction.
Which
disc materials are more aggressive for street driving?
Discs
using metallic facings are usually more aggressive on engagement than
organic or composites. Check
the clutch disc ‘barometer’ in the RAM catalog for descriptions on
each friction material.
I
have a RAM 900 series disc and it is completely worn out on the flywheel
side in only a few hundred miles. What
gives?
RAM
900 series discs were developed and tested using RAM flywheels.
Since introduction of this disc we have discovered material
differences in both factory and other manufacturers flywheels that make
them incompatible with the 900 series material.
We recommend using 900 series ONLY with a RAM flywheel.
RELEASE
BEARINGS
My
release bearing looks to be off center when viewed from the face.
Why?
The
bearing you describe is a self aligning release bearing.
The bearing is designed to move about on the collar and find its
own center on the pressure plate fingers the first time the clutch is
disengaged. Most late model
applications use this style of bearing.
My
release bearing is making noise. What
do I do?
First
make sure that you have proper adjustment.
If the release bearing is adjusted too close to the fingers,
eventually it will spin out all of the grease and cause the bearing to
make noise.
Also
check the fork and pivot ball for wear.
Wear in these parts will cause a noise that is often mistaken for
bearing noise. We have seen
this particularly lately in 01-04 Mustang applications.
FLYWHEELS
Should
I use a steel or lightweight aluminum flywheel?
Go
to clutch
university…. Flywheels on
this website to determine what you should use.
How
much horsepower will I gain by using a light flywheel?
There
is no horsepower in a light flywheel, all of the horsepower is in the
engine. The advantage of a lighter flywheel is that it takes less
horsepower to accelerate a lighter flywheel so more engine power is
available at the drive wheels. Also see: clutch university…. Flywheels.
Why
is a RAM flywheel my best choice ?
Every
ram flywheel is: 1. Precision machined in house on the finest CNC
equipment, 2. The friction surface is accurately ground to the ideal rms
finish for optimum performance with the clutch disc friction material, 3.
Each flywheel is precision balanced to better than factory tolerances ,
and 4. every flywheel is SFI certified for competition use.
Is
my RAM flywheel balanced from the factory?
All
RAM flywheels are factory balanced to zero or the proper imbalance for the
engine from the factory. If
your engine was balanced by adding or taking weight from the flywheel, you
will need to have the RAM flywheel match balanced to your old one.
Otherwise they are ready to install out of the box.
BE CAREFUL to select the proper flywheel or engine-destroying
vibrations could occur!
Do
I have to resurface my flywheel before installing a new clutch?
YES!
In order for the new clutch disc to properly seat to the flywheel,
it should be resurfaced using a flywheel grinding machine.
Do not lathe turn flywheels! This
can cause a taper in the face that will not allow the disc to seat
properly. FAILURE TO SURFACE
THE FLYWHEEL CAN NOT ONLY CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE, IT WILL VOID ANY
WARRANTY.
What
is blanchard grinding?
Blanchard
grinding is simply resurfacing the flywheel with a stone cutter that spins
opposite the flywheel and leaves a ‘cross hatch’ type pattern on the
surface.
Can
I use star washers to install my flywheel?
RAM
recommends using red loctite or similar compounds to lock the flywheel
bolts into the crank. Star
washers will tend to eat up the flywheel around the bolt holes and
eventually make it difficult to get the bolts in or out of the flywheel.
This is especially true with aluminum flywheels.
I
have a Mustang flywheel and my factory dowel pins will not fit.
What dowel pins do I need?
All
RAM Mustang flywheels are drilled to use the factory step dowel pins
utilized on 86-95 5.0L engines/flywheels.
The RAM part number for these dowels is 563.
I
purchased a RAM flywheel for my Ford and the crank holes do not line up.
The
crank pattern on Ford SB and modular engines is not evenly spaced and will
only align one way. Place
the flywheel on the flange and slowly work around the pattern until the
holes align. Install the bolts
with only a couple of threads until you find the proper alignment.
ASSAULT
WEAPON/7.25
SERIES CLUTCHES
How
do I check my 2 or 3 disc clutch for wear?
The
determining factor is the overall ‘stack height’ of the clutch.
To check this, install all of the parts into the clutch housing and
set the cover on but DO NOT BOLT DOWN.
At this point the cover should be sitting up off the shoulder of
the mounting studs. The
distance between the top of the mounting stud and the bottom edge of the
cover is the stack height. New
clutches ship with a stack height around .110 inch.
The clutch could slip once this gap reduces to around .050 inch.
If you have shim washers in your clutch on the studs, measure the
gap with them in place first. If
the stack is at or below .050 inch, you can remove the shims which will
restore the stack back to about .110 inch.
Once it wears the next time, it is time for a rebuild.
My
clutch is slipping. Can I just
put a disc pack in and go again?
You
COULD, but this might not address the problem.
The steel plates should all be checked for flatness.
Warped or hot spotted plates will not allow a new disc pack to seat
properly. Check the cover
plate to make sure the diaphragm spring (fingers) is tight on the rivets.
Loose springs will cause the clutch to release erratically.
WHEN THE CLUTCH HAS WORN TO THE POINT THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED THE
SHIMS, CONSIDER SENDING THE CLUTCH FOR REBUILD.
What
do I use for a flywheel on RAM button style clutches?
Use
an automatic transmission flexplate that matches your tooth count for
starter engagement and matches the balance of your engine.
A stock flexplate is acceptable as it is only used to start the
engine.
I
have a new race engine and the crank pattern is different.
Can I purchase a button for my clutch to change this over?
Yes.
The internals of the clutch are all the same so you can go to our online
store and purchase the replacement button for your new application.
I
have a new Assault clutch and it won’t release.
What could be the problem?
There
are several possibilities:
1.
Make
sure you are using a rounded or angular face throwout bearing.
Flat face stock bearings do not push on the finger tips of the
clutch and will often cause non release and extremely stiff pedal effort.
2.
Check
the fork angle in relation to the engine.
Ideally, the fork should be angled to the front of the car when the
bearing is just touching the clutch fingers (drivers side pivots only,
this is opposite if the fork pivots on the passenger side).
This angle can be adjusted using different length pivot balls, or
by making a spacer for the fork bracket.
3.
Is
the bellhousing properly aligned? Most
aftermarket bellhousings are ‘less than perfect’ when it comes to
alignment. Follow the
bellhousing manufacturers instructions to align it to the engine.
IN ADDITION, just because a bellhousing is aligned to the current
motor, don’t assume it is correct for any engine.
This varies from motor to motor…
4.
Make
sure the shim washers are placed on the stands BEFORE the cover is bolted
down.
RAM
COUPLER
What
is the maximum car weight for use with a RAM Coupler?
RAM
recommends using the coupler in vehicles under 2600 pounds.
Using the Coupler in heavier cars will result in accelerated wear
to the friction lining of the unit.
What
release bearing do I use with the Coupler and how much bearing travel is
required to use it?
Any
standard or hydraulic release mechanism may be used provided it has at
least ½ inch travel AT THE BEARING, not at the fork.
For internal hydraulic release bearings, look for .700 inch travel.
My
car fits the RAM specifications for the Coupler, but I have problems
pulling off with the cone clutch. What
can cause this?
Several
possibilities:
1.
If
you are using a transmission with some of the gears removed and starting
in 3rd or 4th gear, it will be much more difficult
to get the car moving than if you have a low gear in the trans.
This is especially critical when you are learning to use the
Coupler initially.
2.
The
Coupler cannot be ‘slipped’ like a regular clutch to get moving.
The pedal should be bumped in and out AT LOW RPM until the car is
moving. If you try and drive
it like a regular clutch, the friction cone will wear very quickly.
3.
Inadequate
travel at the release bearing will not allow for the full range of
movement between the clutch portion of the unit and the direct drive.
I
can get the Coupler to pull off, but it just grinds when I try to engage
the direct drive. Why?
Because
the Coupler gears are not synchronized like a transmission, the engine and
input speeds must be ‘matched’ in order for the direct drive to
engage. In other words, the
engine RPM will need to be falling to match the output speed – once the
gear engages jump back on the throttle and go!
STREET
STOCK CLUTCHES
I
want a lightweight clutch. Can
I use RAM street stock components in my street driven car?
Not
recommended. Street Stock
components are manufactured to be as light as possible and will not stand
up to the rigors of day to day driving.
I
bought a RAM 1535 flywheel for my Mustang 4 cylinder and the starter gear
will not line up.
The
RAM 1535 is designed for use with older 2000/2300 Pinto style engines and
will not work on later model applications.
SINGLE
IRON
How
do I know when it’s time to look at a sintered iron clutch versus other
RAM products?
The
factors that determine this answer are:
1.
Is
your current clutch combination too aggressive?
In other words, do the tires spin excessively off the line or on
the gear change?
2.
Is
the vehicle over 750 horsepower?
3.
Is
there a need to ‘slip’ the clutch off the line in order for the
vehicle to launch cleanly?
4.
Are
you in a class that greatly limits chassis modifications?
These
are the most important factors to consider.
Sintered clutches tend to be less aggressive on engagement and gear
changes, allowing the clutch to slip some rather than spin or shake the
tires.
How
many runs can I put on a sintered iron disc before it needs to be
replaced?
For
safety reasons, we recommend a maximum of 75 runs on an iron disc.
It is not that you necessarily wear it out in this time period, but
the carrier of the disc rivets that hold the clutch hub in place see very
high stress during use, and ultimately stress cracks may form on the
carrier over extended use that could cause the clutch disc to come apart.
Why
do sintered iron clutches use such a low static pressure?
The
nature of the sintered material is a very high coefficient of friction, or
ability to hold and withstand heat. They
simply do not require the higher pressures and are able to tolerate
slippage where other friction materials fail.
When
do I use a counterweighted lever versus a standard lever?
All
Long Style clutches inherently apply additional clamp loading as engine
RPM increases, whether they are true ‘counterweighted’ clutches or
not. Counterweighted levers
allow you to use less static pressure to leave the line, and have more
pressure apply as the engine accelerates in RPM.
True counterweighted levers (drilled with a hole to add weight) are
used in ‘non-shifting’ applications such as clutchless transmissions,
or when the engine RPM will not exceed 6500.
I
have a counterweighted single iron clutch and when I bring the RPM up on
the starting line, the pedal is pushing back and trying to pull the car
through the lights at the starting line.
Why?
Your
launch RPM is too high. Because
centrifugal is not a linear function, the higher the launch RPM, the
centrifugal loading is compounded. The
weights are trying to push back and engage the clutch centrifugally.
This will become evident usually above 7000 RPM.
In order for the sintered iron clutch to ‘slip’ off the line,
you must launch at a lower RPM than you are probably used to.
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