This install begins from the point the transmission has been removed from the car. Setup of the collar and bearing is similar for torque tube and regular transmission mounting.

C5/C6 Torque Tube Install

1. Remove the two – M6 x 20mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission/torque tube. Remove the factory bearing assembly as shown in photo 1.

photo 1

2. Install the RAM collar using the factory bolts or supplied RAM M6 – 20mm bolts as shown in photo 2. Use a small drop of blue loctite on the bolts. Align the collar so that the 5/16 locating stud hole is towards the bottom.

photo 2

3. Install the locating stud as shown in photo 3 using a drop of blue loctite on the threads.

photo 3

4. Place 2 or 3 of the conical shims over the collar as seen in photo 4. We will measure later with the bearing in place to determine how many shims are needed for the final installation.

photo 4

5. On the bearing housing, install the 2 – 1/8 pipe to #3 45 degree fittings. Use a thread sealant on the pipe end. Tighten the fittings and angle the –3 ends slightly towards the rear of the transmission/torque tube.

6. Slide the bearing onto the collar as shown in photo 5. Make sure the anti-rotation slot is located on the stud.

photo 5

7. Now you must measure to determine how many shims will be required for proper bearing clearance. This is critical – adjusting the bearing too close to the clutch fingers may cause premature slippage. Adjusting too far away may result in non-release and cause you to remove the transmission or torque tube again.

8. Measure from the bearing face (fully retracted) to the face of the torque tube. Use a straight edge across the front of the bearing and dial calipers to measure so you get an accurate number. This operation may require assistance to hold the straight edge. Check this several times and record the number. (see photo 6)

photo 6

9. Measure the position of the clutch fingers. Using the straight edge, lay it across the face of the bellhousing where the torque tube bolts up, and measure down to the clutch fingers (see photo 7). Again, check this measurement several times to make sure you are getting an accurate number.

photo 7

10. Now use the measurements you took to verify position of the bearing. See the following example:

Bearing measurements

Clutch fingers to bell measurement: 2.392”

Bearing height with 2 shims: 2.150”

Bearing height with 3 shims: 2.320”

Bearing height with 4 shims: 2.490”

So in this example, the installed gap would be:

With 2 shims: 2.392 – 2.150 = .242” gap

With 3 shims: 2.392 – 2.320 = .072” gap

With 4 shims: 2.392 – 2.490 = -.009” gap

The total potential movement of the bearing on the collar is .800”. In selecting the proper shims, you must make sure to allow enough room for the clutch to wear, and also allow enough forward travel (roughly .500”) without hitting the front stop on the bearing. By using two shims in this example, we are .242” off the fingers. This will allow for adequate wear clearance as the fingers move back. RAM recommends a minimum of .200” clearance.

Setup height example

11. Install the two 90 degree ends of the braided lines on the bearing as shown in photo 8.

12. Photo 9 shows the proper routing of the hydraulic lines on our torque tube install. The lines cross over each other and exit the torque tube/bellhousing. Install the tie wrap at a point 180 degrees opposite the exit holes. The top outlet on the bearing should be your bleeder connection; put the bleeder screw in the hose end now to keep track of this. Routing the lines in this manner will allow the bearing carrier/housing to move forward and back without any interference with the clutch assembly.

13. At this point you are ready to re-install the torque tube/transmission housing. On the C5 Corvette we have a bonus in that the bottom of the bellhousing is removable. This allows you to verify bearing clearance and release before completing the install (see photo 10). Re-install the torque tube/transmission, carefully routing the lines through the openings so as not to crimp them.

14. On C5 installs, you will need to tap into the factory master cylinder using the braided line attached to the factory bearing. Cut this line with a cutoff saw between the bearing and the factory quick coupler. Install the #4 Teflon hose end to the line you just cut off. If you are unfamiliar with assembling hose ends, ask for help from someone who does know. Make sure to flush out the line thoroughly.

15. On C6 installs, tap into the steel ¼ inch line between the quick connect and the bearing. Use the ¼ inch compression fitting to #3 adapter to connect from the new bearing to the factory feed line.

16. Re-connect the factory quick connect to the master cylinder and connect the other end to the RAM bearing feed line using the supplied #4 to #3 connector (C5) or 1/4 compression to #3 (C6).

17. Route the bleeder line so you have access to the screw and bleed the system. Use only dot 3 brake fluid.

18. Check for proper release BEFORE reinstalling the bellhousing cover.

19. Make SURE that all hydraulic lines are routed away from any heat sources and securely tied

photo 8

photo 9

photo 10

20. For transmission installations with non-removable bellhousings, install the collar as above in the torque tube install. Measure from the block mounting face of the bellhousing to the bearing face. Use a straight edge across the face of the bellhousing. Record this number. (see photo 7)

21. Measure from the tip of the clutch fingers to the block face using a straight edge. Record this number and do the calculations as shown above for the torque tube install (see photo 11).

22. Now use your measurements to determine proper shimming based on the example bearing measurements shown earlier.

23. Install the hydraulic lines to the bearing, routing them through the factory openings in the bellhousing. The top outlet of the bearing should be used as the bleeder – install the bleed screw in this line now to avoid confusion (see photo 12).

24. Re-install the transmission, carefully routing the hydraulic lines.

25. The factory master is plumbed to the bearing using a combination of plastic and metal ¼ inch hard lines. You will need to tap into a part of the metal line to connect your RAM bearing to the factory master.

26. Cut the ¼ inch line between the attachment point to the factory bearing and the quick connect fitting. Clean up the end for use with a compression fitting.

27. Install the ¼ compression fitting to #3 adapter onto the factory ¼ inch line. Connect the feed line from the bearing to the #3 adapter end.

28. Route the bleeder line so you have access to the screw and bleed the system. Use only dot 3 brake fluid. Make sure you have some slack in the hydraulic lines as the bearing assembly will be moving back and forth on the collar.

29. Test the clutch system for release.

30. For transmission installs with removable bellhousings (such as F-body T56), install the collar as above in the torque tube install. Measure from the bearing face (fully retracted) to the face of bellhousing (block side). Use a straight edge across the top of the bellhousing to measure so you get an accurate number. This operation may require a helper to hold the straight edge. Check this several times and record the number (see photo 11).

photo 11

31. Install the bellhousing only on the engine. Measure the position of the clutch fingers. Using the straight edge, lay it across the face of the bellhousing where the transmission bolts up, and measure down to the clutch fingers (see photo 7). Again, check this measurement several times to make sure you are getting an accurate number.

32. Now use your measurements to determine proper shimming based on the example

33. bearing measurements shown earlier in the torque tube install.

34. Install the hydraulic lines to the bearing, routing them through the factory openings in the bellhousing (see photo 12). The top outlet of the bearing should be used as the bleeder – install the bleed screw in this line now to avoid confusion.

photo 12

35. Re-install the transmission, carefully routing the hydraulic lines.

36. The factory master is plumbed to the bearing using a combination of plastic and metal ¼ inch hard lines. You will need to tap into a part of the metal line to connect your RAM bearing to the factory master.

37. Cut the ¼ inch line between the attachment point to the factory bearing and the quick connect fitting. Clean up the end for use with a compression fitting.

38. Install the ¼ compression fitting to #3 adapter onto the factory ¼ inch line. Connect the feed line from the bearing to the #3 adapter end.

39. Route the bleeder line so you have access to the screw and bleed the system. Use only dot 3 fluid.

40. Test the clutch system for release.

IMPORTANT! BE SURE THERE IS ADEQUATE SLACK IN THE SLAVE CYLINDER FEED LINE TO ALLOW FREE MOVEMENT OF THE BEARING CARRIER/HOUSING.

IF YOU EXPERIENCE PROBLEMS, DO NOT RETURN THIS PART TO YOUR DISTRIBUTOR. REVIEW THESE INSTRUCTIONS, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A PROPER BLEED ON THE SYSTEM, AND REVIEW ANY TECHNICAL NOTES ON THE RAM WEBSITE. IF THIS DOES NOT SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM, CONTACT THE FACTORY TECH SERVICES.

www.ramclutches.com

form 2007-18 78165 bearing