Caution! Read these instructions thoroughly before attempting to install this product. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to your clutch assembly. In order to use the RAM bearing, it will be necessary to modify the transmission-bearing retainer for proper fit.

The RAM hydraulic release bearing is designed for use with RAM and competitive brands of multiple disc racing clutches. This bearing has a total travel time of .400 inch.

Stock-type clutches require more travel than this bearing is capable of. Do not use the Ram hydraulic bearing with these types of units or non-release and/or clutch damage will occur.

A. PREPARATION

Please note: Proper installation of the RAM hydraulic bearing is critical to operation of both the bearing and your clutch. Please take your time, double check all measurements and centering of the bearing during mounting. Off center mounting will result in bearing leakage and improper operation of the clutch.

Before installing the bearing, you must decide which mounting method you wish to use. The bearing may be mounted using the provided clamp assembly through the pivot ball hole (Chevrolet ONLY), or it may be mounted by drilling two holes in the bellhousing and using the provided countersunk screws.

A proper hydraulic master cylinder must be selected to actuate the hydraulic bearing. For most clutches, a ¾ or 7/8 inch bore cylinder will provide adequate fluid movement to release the clutch.

WARNING

Testing indicates that a Dot 3 standard brake fluid should be used with your RAM bearing. Do not use silicone-based fluids!

B. SETTING UP THE BEARING IN THE BELLHOUSING

Please note: Before mounting your bearing, the bellhousing must be checked for proper alignment to the engine block.

Bellhousing alignment is critical to the operation of your clutch and hydraulic bearing. A misaligned bellhousing will cause erratic clutch operation, and premature wear or fluid leakage on the hydraulic bearing assembly. Most bellhousing manufacturers include an instruction sheet on alignment.

To check alignment, use a dial indicator with the base mounted to the crank flange to check the transmission pilot hole for concentricity to the crankshaft centerline with +/- .010”. Check the face of the bellhousing (where the transmission mounts) for squareness to the back of the block. Variance should be no more than +/- .010” side to side and top to bottom.

C. MOUNTING WITH THE PROVIDED CLAMP (CHEVROLET APPLICATIONS ONLY)

Remove the transmission bearing retainer from the front of your transmission.

Remove the pivot ball assembly from your bellhousing.

Place the bellhousing over the removed bearing retainer on a flat surface, so that the collar protrudes to the inside of the bellhousing and open side of the housing faces up.

Put the bearing assembly over the retainer and locate against the rear of the bellhousing, so that the flat side of the base lines up with the pivot ball hole.

In some cases, it may be necessary to machine some of the pivot ball mounting boss in order for the bearing base to sit flat against the rear of the bellhousing.

Because you have not yet modified the retainer collar, the bearing may still not sit flat in the bellhousing. From the rear of the bearing, push the piston out so that the bearing is in the extended position. Now the assembly should sit flat against the rear of the bellhousing.

Line up the mounting clamp (with curved side down) to the pivot ball hole and install the bolt. Use a thread retaining compound to insure the bolt will not back out.

D. MOUNTING USING THE PREDRILLED HOLES IN THE BEARING BASE (CHEVROLET AND FORD APPLICATIONS)

Set up the bellhousing with the retainer collar as above.

Place the bearing assembly over the retainer collar. If it does not sit flat, refer to 5 & 6 in the “clamp mounting” section.

Mark the two holes to be drilled using the base as a template. Drill the holes ¼ inch and counterbore the transmission side of the bellhousing, so that the provided ¼-20 countersunk bolts sit at, or just below the bellhousing face.

Bolt the bearing assembly to the inside of the bellhousing.

SPECIAL NOTE CONCERNING ALUMINUM BELLHOUSINGS:

Factory aluminum bellhousings may have strengthening ribs on the inside rear of the housing. You will need to machine a flat area approximately one inch wide around the entire transmission pilot hole in order for the release bearing to sit flat for mounting.

E. SETTING UP AND MODIFYING THE BEARING RETAINER

The transmission collar pictured on left is stock, the bearing on the right is modified. Note how material has been removed from the flat portion as well as ups to the protruding bearing guide.

It will be necessary to modify the transmission bearing retainer to allow the bearing full travel and to allow the transmission to bolt up properly to the bellhousing.

Turn the bellhousing over so that the transmission side is facing up.

Make sure that the bearing is pushed all the way back in the cylinder. Place the bearing retainer collar into the bearing and bellhousing.

The collar will not go all the way in; you must now determine how much and remove material from the collar so that it will fit all the way into the transmission guide hole in the bellhousing. Make sure the collar does not push the bearing piston up as you push the collar in, for this will not allow the bearing to return far enough to attain proper bearing to clutch finger clearance, or adequate travel to release the clutch.

Once the retainer collar is fit, countersink the four mounting holes for use with the provided countersunk cap screws. At this point, re-install the collar to the transmission and bolt it up to the bellhousing. The transmission should bolt up flush to the housing without pushing the bearing piston outward.

Collar on left (stock) and right (modified)

F. INITIAL HOOK UP AND ADJUSTMENT

Install the two 90 degree #3 fittings into the cylinder using a thread sealant. Make use both fittings point in the same direction and are parallel to the bottom of the bellhousing.

Screw the bearing into the base so that one or two threads remain before the cylinder bottoms out on the threads.

Orient the cylinder so that the 90 degree fittings face the clutch fork opening and tighten the set screw on the base of the assembly against the milled flat spot on the cylinder.

Install the bleed line onto the top fitting and the line from the hydraulic master cylinder (not included) to the other fitting. Route the lines through the clutch fork hole on the bellhousing. Install the bleeder screw to the end of the bleed line and bleed the system.

The bearing piston should move to the top of the cylinder when the pedal is depressed. You can verify that the bearing is making full travel by looking from the backside of the bearing/bellhousing (with transmission removed) to make sure the rear snap ring is moving all the way to the ‘o’ ring boss. Be sure to push the bearing all the way back in the cylinder after checking.

G. FINAL ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT*

At this point, the simplest way to set up the adjustment is by using an engine block and crank out of the vehicle. However, it may be done with the engine in the car if these parts are not available to you.

Install the clutch assembly to the crank as directed in the specific clutch installation instructions.

Again, make sure the bearing is pushed all the way back in the cylinder.

Bolt the bellhousing to the block using three or four bolts. As you tighten the bellhousing bolts, be sure that the bearing is not releasing the clutch by watching through the clutch fork hole.

Before actuating the clutch pedal, take a measurement from the snap ring on the rear of the piston to the stop ridge (‘O’ ring boss) on the cylinder.

Measure from the rear piston retaining ring to the cylinder stop ridge (‘O’ ring boss) to determine release travel and air gap.

Measuring bearing travel from the rear of the bearing

Place an alignment shaft through the disc(s) and actuate the clutch pedal. Measure the release gap of the clutch between the plate(s) and disc(s).

Now allow the pedal to return and re-measure the distance from the snap ring to the stop ridge. The difference between the two measurements is the “air gap” of the bearing, or the clearance between the bearing and the clutch fingers. This measurement also indicates how much closer the bearing can be adjusted without riding on the fingers during operation.

If the proper release gap is not attained, you must remove the bellhousing, disconnect the hydraulic lines, loosen the set screw and turn the bearing cylinder in or out until the proper release gap and/or air gap is found. This may take several tries, but take the time now to get it right!

Once you have made all the adjustments, check to see that all fittings are tight and re-install the transmission. Be sure to check for fluid leaks and wipe all fluid from the bellhousing as this liquid WILL cause the clutch to slip should it get on the friction surfaces.

After a few runs, check the air/release gap settings again, especially after installing a new clutch assembly, as these gaps will change as the clutch wears in.