DO NOT RETURN THIS PRODUCT TO YOUR DISTRIBUTOR.
If you have questions please review additional materials on our
website and/or contact the factory directly
IMPORTANT HYDRAULIC BEARING INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS - PLEASE REVIEW THOROUGHLY!
OF THE HYDRAULIC BEARING
starting, RAM recommends prelubing the piston with hydraulic fluid to
make sure you have smooth operation and reduce the chance of damage to
the o-rings during the installation. Manually extend the outer
housing to its maximum position against the snap ring. Coat the
rear of the inner piston with hydraulic fluid then cycle the bearing in
and out a few times until it moves smoothly.
RAM bearing is a floating assembly. Misalignment of the
transmission input shaft and engine block will cause o-ring failure.
Aftermarket bellhousings MUST be dial indicated to the engine to insure
proper alignment. These bellhousings are often not aligned on the
center hole to the pilot bearing, and/or squareness top to bottom and
side to side. Follow your bellhousing manufacturer's instructions
to complete this procedure.
MUST use a DOT 3 non-synthetic fluid with RAM hydraulic bearings or
damage to the o-rings will occur. If the hydraulic system had
another type of fluid prior to installing this bearing, THOROUGHLY flush
the system before installing this product. Old, dirty, or
contaminated fluid must also be changed.
CONTACT OF PISTON SNAP RING ON CLUTCH FINGERS
RAM hydraulic bearing is engineered to be compatible with RAM clutch
systems. If you are using a clutch other than RAM, you will need
to verify that the bearing piston/snap ring will not make contact with
the clutch fingers on your clutch. To check this, bolt your clutch
to the flywheel and measure the center hole opening of the fingers.
The bearing piston measures 1.620-1.650". Make sure your
center hole is larger than this dimension to avoid this contact.
If you should decide to remove the snap ring to increase your clearance,
special attention must be paid in setup not to overtravel the cylinder
and extend it off the end of the piston.
CONTACT WITH WEIGHTS ON CENTERFORCE CLUTCHES
clearance of the RAM hydraulic bearing cylinder with weights on
Centerforce pressure plates. Contact is possible with these units.
If you need a compatible pressure plate, contact RAM technical
assistance. No warranty will be allowed on bearing cylinders that
show evidence of contact with outside sources.
SEALED INLET/OUTLET FITTINGS
inlet and outlet fittings on the bearing cylinder must be properly
sealed to avoid potential leaks. Use
Teflon tape ONLY on these fittings. Do NOT use any liquid,
PST, or other types of sealants or leaks WILL occur. RAM cannot
allow warranty for leaking fittings.
setup height is critical to allow for clutch wear and achieve proper
clutch release, as well as avoid o-ring damage. Proper setup gap
is typically .150-.200".
you have measured and fitted the bearing, make sure the guide stud is
not too long or short by manually extending the bearing to its full
stroke and visually inspecting. The bearing must stay on this
stud, but the stud length may
need to be trimmed to avoid contact with the pressure plate housing.
PEDAL AT THE BOTTOM OF THE STROKE
you set up the bearing with too much clearance, or use a master cylinder
that is too large, the bearing will bottom out on the snap ring.
Continuing to push on the pedal at this point will cause the o-rings to
blow out of the bearing. Use a pedal stop, adjust the master
cylinder rod, or use RAM pedal adjuster 78300 if necessary.
RAM hydraulic bearing may have shipped with an aluminum collar spacer in
1/2", 3/4" or 1.25" thickness. We have determined
that many applications similar to yours require this spacer for proper
bearing gap. If you received this spacer, you should install it
prior to taking your setup measurements. All applications may not
require this depending on your clutch choice.
you should develop a leak with your bearing, it is imperative to
determine where the leak is occurring and why prior to removal.
your fluid. Contaminated
fluid can cause deterioration of o-rings, which will lead to failure
or leakage. The fluid
should be clear and free of any debris or water, and should not
the fluid appear burnt or have debris, make sure all hydraulic lines
are routed away from headers and exhaust that can heat the fluid.
or pull back the transmission so you have sight access to the
release bearing, or allow the bearing to hang and manually push the
bearing all the way back into the base.
someone actuate the clutch pedal while you watch.
Identify the location of the leak.
Make sure it is not coming from any of the fittings,
connections, or lines.
- Once you have determined the nature
of the leak:
fittings remove fittings and re-tape.
Make sure tape extends to the end of the fitting but does not
overlap the bottom. Securely
tighten the feed and bleed lines to the bearing.
O-rings after noting
the position of the leak, examine the top and bottom o-rings for damage.
If damaged, order the proper replacement set for your part number
Change out the o-ring(s)
using the instructions listed below under Bearing Disassembly.
you must disassemble your RAM bearing for any reason, extreme care must
be taken when reinserting the base into the cylinder so as not to damage
remove the snap ring on the front of the bearing base.
installing new o-rings or re-assembling the bearing, liberally coat
o-rings and piston with Parker O-lube.
the piston into the housing or install using a press to avoid
pinching the o-rings.
re-install the snap ring.
number for the replacement o-ring set is 78509 (2.615 housing
diameter) or 78505 (2.250 housing diameter)
*RAM recommends using Parker O-Lube o-ring
lubricant for assembly of the bearing.
Do not use any petroleum based lubricant as these will damage and
deteriorate the o-rings.
INSTALLING A RAM HYDRAULIC BEARING IN YOUR VEHICLE
UP YOUR CLUTCH USING RAM HYDRAULICS
hydraulic bearings are a great way to set up your clutch system in
modified vehicles, late model performance cars, or applications where
space constraints preclude using the factory mechanical or cable linkage
It is critical to understand how these systems work and to get
the bearing set up properly to avoid any problems down the road.
As your clutch system wears, the fingers of the clutch will get
taller or closer to the release bearing.
For this reason it is very important to make sure you have the
proper gap between the bearing and fingers to start with.
Unlike factory hydraulic systems that use a preloaded
release bearing, the RAM bearing requires a setup gap when fully
This gap allows for wear in the clutch system over time that
moves the clutch fingers outward closer to the bearing.
is the most common method for determining fit.
Taking your time on this operation may save you hours of work
down the road!
inch vernier dial calipers and a metal straightedge
TOTAL AVAILABLE TRAVEL
total travel available with a RAM hydraulic bearing is .800.
This means that the travel of your bearing once it touches the
fingers, plus the setup gap, must not exceed .800.
If it does, the bearing will bottom out on the travel limiting
When this occurs, the bearing can be over pressurized and leakage
You can measure the travel of your RAM bearing with your specific
master cylinder by following the guide in the hydraulic instructions
area of our website.
required setup gap for the RAM hydraulic bearing is .150 minimum
(single disc clutches) or .200 minimum (dual disc clutches).
OF THE BELLHOUSING TO THE RELEASE BEARING
the bellhousing to the transmission with a couple of bolts.
Measure from the engine side face of the bellhousing down to the
release bearing with the bearing surface FULLY RETRACTED in its housing.
This is dimension B on the setup drawing.
dimension B = 3.500
clutch height measurement is required to determine the hydraulic bearing
First we must determine the crank flange protrusion from the back
of the block, or bellhousing mounting surface.
It is critical to have any
block or engine plates in place when you take this measurement, as this
will affect the overall computation.
This is dimension A on the setup drawing.
Measure from the face of the crank flange to the block or engine
clutch height (Dimension C) is measured by bolting the entire
assembly to the flywheel, just like it will be installed in the vehicle.
Measure from the fingers of the clutch down through the center of
the discs to the crank mating surface of the flywheel.
A (.250) + C (.3.050) = TOTAL CLUTCH HEIGHT (3.300)
STEP: DETERMING THE GAP OF
THE HYDRAULIC BEARING
we have the info we need to determine the gap.
By subtracting the bellhousing face to slave/bearing measurement
B from the clutch height measurement determined above (A +
C), the bearing gap can be determined.
BELLHOUSING DEPTH (B) (3.500) CLUTCH HEIGHT (A+C) (3.300)
this number meets our requirement of minimum .200 gap, we are exactly
where we need to be and this install can be completed.
the gap number is under the requirement, a shim behind the bearing
must be removed, or if no shims are in place, some spacing of the
bellhousing or transmission is required.
Alternatively, the collar of the transmission can be trimmed to
allow the bearing to sit further back on the collar.
If the dimension
B number is 3.375
DEPTH (B) (3.375) CLUTCH HEIGHT (A+C) (3.300) = .075
this case, the gap is below the specified amount and
modifications/adjustment will need to be made to increase the bearing
the gap number is over the requirement, the bearing must be shimmed
out using the supplied black or gold shims to achieve the gap
If the dimension B number is 3.750
DEPTH (B) (3.750) CLUTCH HEIGHT (A+C) (3.300) = .450
the bearing gap is too high at .450.
Install shims to adjust the bearing height accordingly to achieve
the gap requirement listed above.
you have completed these measurements and double-checked your math, you
are ready to proceed with testing and installation.
THE BEARING TRAVEL AND PRESSURE CONNECTIONS
next step is to measure the total potential
travel of the bearing as well as check for leaks.
the hydraulic lines to the bearing and the master cylinder.
Let the bearing hang under the car and have a helper assist you
in bleeding the bearing. You
will need to manually retract the bearing back to its compressed
position between each stroke of the pedal as the bleeding process is
bled, you can check the travel of the bearing.
Compress it again to its shortest position.
From the backside of the bearing, measure with a set of vernier
calipers from the outer housing to the inner piston.
Record this measurement. Have
someone give the pedal a full stroke.
Re-measure from the outer housing down to the inner piston.
The difference between the starting and ending measurement is
your bearing travel.
AVAILABLE BEARING TRAVEL:
MEASUREMENT (FULL STROKE):
- .050 = .500 ACTUAL TRAVEL
Now, this is important!
The amount of actual travel plus the clearance (freeplay) must
the potential travel number you calculated above.
If it does, the bearing will bottom out on the snap ring when
operated and cause the bearing to leak from over-pressurization.
clutch systems require between .400 and .500 travel to disengage
properly. In the example
above the bearing would operate correctly.
If you do not get at least the .500 travel movement of the
bearing, re-bleed the system and test again.
If you still do not get adequate travel, it may be necessary to
change the master cylinder to a larger bore model to increase the
bearing travel to the proper length.
THE HYDRAULIC BEARING
the transmission bearing retainer bolt from the lower-left side opposite
the fork opening window of the bellhousing. Replace it with the enclosed
stud as needed. The inlet
and bleed fittings should be pointing towards the fork opening on the
you are using the optional remote bleed line kit, replace the bleed
fitting on the hydraulic housing with the fitting supplied in the kit.
Attach the bleed line to the fitting as it will be routed through the
fork hole in the bellhousing.
the 1/8 pipe to #3 and bleed fittings in the bearing assembly. The 1/8
pipe fitting should be located toward the window of the housing when
positioned over the bearing retainer. Use of Teflon tape on the fittings is
shims and re-measure Dimension B until a setup gap (D) of .150-.200 is
achieved, or as needed based on your bearing travel measurements.
the hydraulic release bearing over the bearing retainer with the inlet
and bleed fittings towards the fork opening in the bellhousing and down
over the stud installed in the retainer. The bearing will float on this
stud when the slave is operated.
the stud length by manually extending the bearing to maximum travel.
The end of the stud should be about even with the top of the slot
in the bearing housing. It
may be necessary to trim the stud length to avoid contact with the
the o-ring on the inside of the bearing assembly base. Attach a #3 line
to the inlet fitting and the remote bleed line, if used. Install the
required shims on the collar. Start the bearing on the input collar
until the o-ring contacts the collar. Start the transmission into the
bellhousing, routing the feed lines into the bellhousing and through the
fork hole. As you continue installing the transmission, the bearing will
be pushed back into position on the collar.
connect the hydraulic feed line and bleed the system thoroughly.
more or less travel is needed to disengage the clutch assembly, adjust
the shims and recheck the position of the bearing on the transmission.
this point you have properly tested and set up your hydraulic bearing
and given yourself the best chance for trouble free operation.
Finish the install and carefully route the feed line, avoiding
headers or other hot spots on the car that could heat up the
hydraulic fluid. It is a
good idea to insulate the feed line to avoid this problem.
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